Depending on who you ask, Wedding has been (quietly) or (loudly) becoming one of Berlin’s most compelling and desirable neighbourhoods.
It’s characterized by its dichotomies: the chaotic and wild Müllerstraße, brimming with döner shops, casinos, supermarkets and locals bumping into one another as they run daily errands.
In contrast, it boasts large swathes of peaceful, green spaces in abundance; among them, Berlin’s first public green space, the Schillerpark and the nearby Rehberge park with its open-air summer cinema and Plötzensee lake.
Left-out from the tourist throngs which have overrun the “cool” districts in the east and south of Berlin, residents of Wedding have been keeping understandably mum about their Kiez. However, keeping quiet is a growing struggle as the area burgeons with intriguing establishments.
For people looking to buy a flat in Berlin, Wedding offers a chance to become part of a blossoming community and leave your personalised mark on your home with plenty of un-renovated apartment stock still available.
To begin courting the idea of a Wedding apartment, pop over to online magazine HERZ & BLUT, whose founder Jules Villbrandt is also a Wedding resident, to ogle the Englisches Viertel flat of Christoph Kümmecke here.
Coffee Shop Culture and Shopping in Wedding
The peripheral location of Wedding has fostered a spirited assortment of shops and restaurants freely able to express their creative vision.
Combining an ethos for conscious buying with a love of coffee and her work as a self-taught artist, Grus Grus owner Dóra Földes has brought a unique format of vintage store & cafe to her own Kiez. In the lovely space near Leopoldplatz, the largely earth-toned garments have been hand-picked by Dóra for their exemplary fits and mainly natural materials such as linen or cotton.
Grus Grus neighbour shop Totem is an international bookshop for children’s books and comics. The shelves of this cosy bookshop are lined with a wonderfully curated selection of illustrated books for German, English, French, Spanish, Arabic and Italian speaking families. The convivial atmosphere encourages visitors to linger with a cup of tea in the kid-friendly café or to join in on Totem’s weekly events.
Located in the modern-day Brutalist Lobe Block in Gesundbrunnen, label HundHund opens their studio space for shoppers several times during the week. The well-made minimalistic pieces are the results of their focus on European sourcing and production in efforts to reduce their ecological footprint and maintain fair labour practices. Special attention is bestowed on the fabric selection, which ranges from traditionally luxurious materials such as cashmere, silk and cotton to more sustainable eco-textiles such as Tencel.
It’s hard to escape Café Largo without indulging in a cheeky treat to go along with their Flying Roasters blend coffee. The veggie and vegan dishes are house-made using organic, locally- sourced and especially seasonal produce, meaning you’ll be tempted to try something new with every visit.
The family behind Cafe Motte have hatched an alluring format of weekend brunch, daily cakes and a careful selection of beer and wine whilst moonlighting as an art gallery space and tattoo shop. Beyond their love for sharing food, art is held in high esteem with son Adrian tattooing in the room next door and monthly vernissage of work by different artists.
A Cornucopia of Food in Wedding
When hunger strikes in Wedding you could easily opt for Michelin starred cuisine at Ernst (but, book at least three months in advance!), a traditional Hunan Chinese at Asia Deli or the drunken delights of a greasy Müllerstraße Döner at 7 a.m.
But, we happily return to the Lobe Block in Gesundbrunnen, which has asserted itself as a location of interest in Wedding, to feast on locally-sourced, avant-garde plates at Baldon. In their paired-down ground floor space, simple and wholesome lunch and dinner plates change practically daily and are ushered out of the open kitchen. To our delight, Friday nights are now dedicated to drinks, bar food accompanied by chill records.
With a tantalizing, inviting smell of freshly baked dough and hot cheese wafting out of its doors, Sotto has established itself in less than a year as not only a beloved Wedding pizzeria, but one of the best in Berlin. Pizza-master is Italian Mattia Mancini who lovingly cold-ferments the dough for several days before it is assembled with a range of vegetarian or vegan toppings.
All in all, the food scene in Wedding has seen a tremendous expansion of offerings in the last couple of years, further pushing the historically humble neighbourhood into the foreground of the Berlin scene.
Kunst, Kulture & Fun in Wedding
Nodding to the roots of its building as utopian social design, Galerie Wedding combines everyday anthropological and socio-political questions with contemporary art in the style of performative interventions, publications, smellscapes and talks.
In the unlikely confines of Berlin’s first crematorium, silent green kulturquartier has become a nucleus of thinking, research and experimentation in modern culture in Wedding. The generous space is home to outstanding art gallery SAVVY Contemporary, as well as accommodating the Mars restaurant and a program of concerts and lectures under the restored cupola.
For aperitifs, The Forsberg has a tidy menu of cocktails, wines and antipasti. On summer days, we flock to their outdoor area to people watch but it truly shines on early winter nights, when we venture to drink inside the raw, salon-like, candlelit space indoors.
Studio 8 is just the sort of hip, dimly lit, smoke-filled bar for which Berlin is famous. Bartenders border on cheeky but charming and strong cocktails edge on refined, without feeling too grown-up. Several nights a week they treat us to music, whether the experimental variety or a DJ playing old funk and soul records.
While we still bemoan the void of the legendary and sorely missed Stattbad, a good evening in Wedding can still be extended to the wee hours of the morning with a dance at Anita Berber. Housed in a hidden corner of a former industrial plant near the Panke, the club feels more like a bar with a dance floor and great drinks.
Grus Grus: Schererstraße 7, 13347
Totem: Maxstraße 1, 13347
HundHund: Böttgerstraße 16, 13357. Check on Instagram for open days.
Café Largo: Malplaquetstr. 33, 13347
Cafe Motte: Nazarethkirchstr. 40 13347
Ernst: Gerichtstraße 54, 13347
Asia Deli: Seestraße 41, 13353
Baldon: Böttgerstraße 16, 13357
Sotto: Neue Hochstraße 25, 13347
Galerie Wedding: Müllerstraße 146/147, 13353
silent green Kulturquartier: Gerichtstraße 35, 13347
SAVVY Contemporary: Plantagenstraße 31, 13347
The Forsberg: Gerichtstraße 26, 13347
Studio 8: Grüntaler Str. 8, 13357
Anita Berber: Pankstraße 17, 13357